Three girls in Bend. There were two nights and three memorable days. Already the road to get a curve could intimidate someone, not a road paved which climbs through the mountains, three meters wide, barrier-free, left to right on the mountain ravine. Two hours of climbing and bumps.
I sit next to a young woman with her son, Luis Angel, who smiles at me while eating the biscuits. With the woman did not speak much, we just smile, she expects me to move Avre space to accommodate and change the baby.
Lagunilla to go down and the first thing to do is try Umberto: the owner of the hostel. I go to his house and Fotunato is here, take the keys and accommodate us. The hostel is a house for us all very nice and welcoming, not really clean, and with some animal host.
's almost five o'clock and go to Bend, about 15 minutes on foot to take the little that we're missing. We knew we would find little, but we did not imagine that anyone selling water, but still ... here you only drink packaged drinks.
the tienda of the square I do ñ to Teresa, the girl who sat beside me on the bus, she has not even water, smile and take some vegetables to cook.
Maribel is a gentle dentist who works at the hospital in Bend, because apart from being beautiful downtown medical center is also counseling Kallawaya (traditional doctors). Here the two drugs appear to work together on the same site you can see a doctor and a kallawaya, the patient can then follow either the treatment or decide to take allopathic medicines and ask for a ritual to Pachamama, or seek to organize kallawaya a riuruale useful to recall that his soul has left him after a fright.
Maribel help me find kallawaya available to talk about themselves and their work, and in a real event and a failure I can speak with Don Ramon and Don Miguel, but the shaman is not there and even Don Maximo, probable is in La Paz. All this because kallawaya travel a lot, are known as medical travelers and their strength lies in the fact that constantly gather to compare the experiences of each and keep alive their knowledge, spread over much of South America.
After the first conversation with Don Ramon back home. It is 8 pm and we walk in the dark for arriovare home and discover that Umberto has not gone to open up the closets ... I go to his house but they are all asleep.
"Excuse me, Umberto! Sorry for the inconvenience but we need the keys ... thank ... anh, no hot water?
" Agua Caliente? No hay "
" And how long does the light? "
" I do not know, it depends ... "
" Vale, muchas gracias, buenas noche .... disculpame por harassment. "
In the morning we woke up wrapped in fog. The town seems suspended in nothingness, and each step curve gives me a vision, someone who appears from the mist" buen dia ", and disappears in the fog behind me, toward its goal.
Maribel helped me and still do around the village to the cemetery and in a sacred place where kallawaya meet for their ceremonies to Pachamama. Sacred places are eight and each one looks a cardinal point, are places full of energy of the earth, wind, mountains, and from which you can see a pesaggio infinite: the Andes with their terraces and valleys, and some village eagles flying. There is a cross. "And 'the Church's fight against Cristani sites it deems dangerous," she explains Don Aurelio "priests here have felt a different energy and to combat what they call the devil have placed a cross, is their defense." The kallawaya do not give up and continue to respect nature, to organize riruali and offering gifts and asking for help and protection to the Pachamama, and they need when traveling to the holy place, despite the cross.
I'm going home with the egg in one hand and drag with the other wood, meeting an old lady pieces of wood on his shoulders and an ass that follows, certainly the Its wood has heated his house better than ours!
The latest chatter with kallawaya and then we have also not clear from the start time of the bus: it seems to 12:00, an old country saying maybe 12:00 and 11:30 the driver 11:00 ... Perhaps that is why yesterday one of the three coca leaves fell wrong when the girls have asked about the trip to Don Ramon. In any case we are in the street at 11 and 10 minutes after the rain arrives on time, after the bus 20.
The bus goes down in the rain and fog. The trip is even more frightening and the road is worse than the famous carretera de la muerte. Let
curve enveloped in its mist. Don Ramon down with us for an important meeting and leaves me his desire to talk about his consocenza and some valuable revelations on medicinal plants, leaving Don Miguel and his stories of rituals and tarot and also do let ñ Teresa, who always met in these and that only days before leaving I heard her sad story.
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