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Don Aurelio

hurry to get to know Don Aurelio.

A feeling tells me that probably the kallawaya was looking for.

Pachamama, through the leaves of coca, the sacred places tells me that I have called, who are here for. A question and the leaf falls, then another and another.

"Sara, you have an association? A group of people working with you?"

"Yes"

"Well, that leaves this mean, you see ..."

And so on, Don Aurelio quard me is knowing the leaves and looking at my eyes.

"It's our relationship with nature, with what might replace it? Attravreso coca communicate with the land and souls. In the land and we will return to earth, we also reincarnate in plants, we return to the Pachamama and the coke is a product of the earth, not the cards "Some kallawaya read the cards but don Aurelio says that" it is a confusion that has persisted for 500 years now, "Don Miguel says that instead of the Tarot are derived from the Inca.

"Why in the tablets of sugar offering to Pachamama I saw the figures of the devil and the Virgin? "

" Even that is a confusion in which we live now. I now see wearing these sneakers because they are more comfortable and keep me warmer slippers, see also this is a mess.

See Sara, is a confusion "

This is the syncretism with whom you live and fight.

" The questions that I can do the cards are different from what I can do with the coca leaf? "

" Certainly, certainly! Coca is the most complete "

Don Aurelio, how can I tell if a kallawaya is sincere or not? I have been told that not all are sincere "

"Well, is not easy, but there are some who do it for money, and you see them. Pachamama never asks for money, is the sick or those who need a ritual offering price. Some says I'm crazy, but I say that money does not bring happiness, we must keep clean the soul and the only way you can be happy.

Since we were declared a UNESCO World Heritage many kallawaya. But we can not give a fee, this creates damage to our culture and this is likely to get lost, the real

kallawaya work the land and are always in contact with the Pachamama, the contact must be every day. " Do

ñ aJustina, the wife of Don Aurelio, leads us to a mate and chamomile to make it more sweet add us of Stevia, a natural sweetener "because white sugar is poison, and so the cane, honey goes'

"Sarah, is there to do a ritual"

"When? Tomorrow I have to leave ..."

"The time is here. And 'detention, we are passing. See the birds in the morning? You speak. The wind caresses your skin, this is the Pachamama."

Darkness falls and we return to our inn ... mind a half hour walk in the clouds give way to the moon that illuminates the road.

E 'in the dark mountain road, but I'm not afraid.

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Coma do you tell the inhabitants of a place if you do not live like them?

Three girls in Bend. There were two nights and three memorable days. Already the road to get a curve could intimidate someone, not a road paved which climbs through the mountains, three meters wide, barrier-free, left to right on the mountain ravine. Two hours of climbing and bumps.

I sit next to a young woman with her son, Luis Angel, who smiles at me while eating the biscuits. With the woman did not speak much, we just smile, she expects me to move Avre space to accommodate and change the baby.

Lagunilla to go down and the first thing to do is try Umberto: the owner of the hostel. I go to his house and Fotunato is here, take the keys and accommodate us. The hostel is a house for us all very nice and welcoming, not really clean, and with some animal host.

's almost five o'clock and go to Bend, about 15 minutes on foot to take the little that we're missing. We knew we would find little, but we did not imagine that anyone selling water, but still ... here you only drink packaged drinks.

the tienda of the square I do ñ to Teresa, the girl who sat beside me on the bus, she has not even water, smile and take some vegetables to cook.

Maribel is a gentle dentist who works at the hospital in Bend, because apart from being beautiful downtown medical center is also counseling Kallawaya (traditional doctors). Here the two drugs appear to work together on the same site you can see a doctor and a kallawaya, the patient can then follow either the treatment or decide to take allopathic medicines and ask for a ritual to Pachamama, or seek to organize kallawaya a riuruale useful to recall that his soul has left him after a fright.

Maribel help me find kallawaya available to talk about themselves and their work, and in a real event and a failure I can speak with Don Ramon and Don Miguel, but the shaman is not there and even Don Maximo, probable is in La Paz. All this because kallawaya travel a lot, are known as medical travelers and their strength lies in the fact that constantly gather to compare the experiences of each and keep alive their knowledge, spread over much of South America.

After the first conversation with Don Ramon back home. It is 8 pm and we walk in the dark for arriovare home and discover that Umberto has not gone to open up the closets ... I go to his house but they are all asleep.

"Excuse me, Umberto! Sorry for the inconvenience but we need the keys ... thank ... anh, no hot water?

" Agua Caliente? No hay "

" And how long does the light? "

" I do not know, it depends ... "

" Vale, muchas gracias, buenas noche .... disculpame por harassment. "

In the morning we woke up wrapped in fog. The town seems suspended in nothingness, and each step curve gives me a vision, someone who appears from the mist" buen dia ", and disappears in the fog behind me, toward its goal.

Maribel helped me and still do around the village to the cemetery and in a sacred place where kallawaya meet for their ceremonies to Pachamama. Sacred places are eight and each one looks a cardinal point, are places full of energy of the earth, wind, mountains, and from which you can see a pesaggio infinite: the Andes with their terraces and valleys, and some village eagles flying. There is a cross. "And 'the Church's fight against Cristani sites it deems dangerous," she explains Don Aurelio "priests here have felt a different energy and to combat what they call the devil have placed a cross, is their defense." The kallawaya do not give up and continue to respect nature, to organize riruali and offering gifts and asking for help and protection to the Pachamama, and they need when traveling to the holy place, despite the cross.

I'm going home with the egg in one hand and drag with the other wood, meeting an old lady pieces of wood on his shoulders and an ass that follows, certainly the Its wood has heated his house better than ours!

The latest chatter with kallawaya and then we have also not clear from the start time of the bus: it seems to 12:00, an old country saying maybe 12:00 and 11:30 the driver 11:00 ... Perhaps that is why yesterday one of the three coca leaves fell wrong when the girls have asked about the trip to Don Ramon. In any case we are in the street at 11 and 10 minutes after the rain arrives on time, after the bus 20.

The bus goes down in the rain and fog. The trip is even more frightening and the road is worse than the famous carretera de la muerte. Let

curve enveloped in its mist. Don Ramon down with us for an important meeting and leaves me his desire to talk about his consocenza and some valuable revelations on medicinal plants, leaving Don Miguel and his stories of rituals and tarot and also do let ñ Teresa, who always met in these and that only days before leaving I heard her sad story.

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Lake puma

wait for the water to become fire and let it cover the blue from orange and red, I was hoping that the sun ragalasse these colors and then let it dwell the stars in the sky, then the next day would be checked again in a game that now because there has always been reborn with the same colors with which you greet. Instead, to me, towards the lake, cloudy, dense and heavy. The Andes do not betray their magic and give me another emotion: the storm over the lake. Tonight the spirits of the lake and I stan scatendando fisherman I go and pray I do not want to drown.

not believe my eyes: the rain is getting snow, the flakes fall heavy and large covering the green grass of the fields. It 's spring here at 3800 meters, it is spring here on Lake Titicaca, is spring here in the snow.

Tomorrow will be beautiful even if the snow will make it awkward, if not impossible, to my arrival in Charazani, a village lost among the Andes, and that requires us to be joined over a wheelbase of 5000 meters.

I try not to worry and write off the couch and look out, listen to the silent snow that almost makes me think not to be there, I hope that tomorrow will be all melted. The silence around me is the vast room with floor to scacchera red and yellow and with two wax figures that look at me, the wall a large map of the leather in Bolivia in 1859. Now

and oxen, and Quach light peeping timid from the other side of the lake and keeps us company. The two ñ a, with its wide skirt and colorful, comes in hand with Kidron's wort for us to do the hot mate.

The heat of the sleeping bag around me, I hear dogs barking in the distance and the wind picks up and takes their complaint to me, I leave at night and look forward to tomorrow night, waiting for the Andes and the lake, waiting for the sun to melt the snow and allow me to reach Charazani and its Kallawaya.

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COMPETITION SHOW "THE COLOR FOR YOUR SAFETY"

is inaugurated today, Saturday, October 16 at 11.00 the exhibition
"THE COLOR FOR YOUR SAFETY " contest INAIL of Venice at the Fondazione Maria delle Grazie in Mestre.

The show is a 'time given to artists to create paintings with themes of safety at work.
are exposed then the entries for the second prize " color for your safety" organized by the seat Venetian Inail.

was held last week the day of victims of accidents. According to a press
dell'ANMIL (National Association Maimed and Disabled at Work) in Italy over a thousand people were killed in 2009 accidents, 300 died as a result of an occupational disease while the injured were 790mila. These figures show that, unfortunately, their common commitment to efforts to date is by no means sufficient to protect the health of workers and therefore deserves special attention in our country, both by civil society institutions. With this objective, the ANMIL wishes to draw attention to the seriousness of this phenomenon, as part of events taking place simultaneously in all the provinces of Italy on 10 October for the National Day for the victims of accidents at work - institutionalized by Decree of the President of the Council of Ministers in 1998 - attended by the top institutions to discuss the policies to be implemented to reverse the 'accident performance significantly.
A SHOW NOT TO BE MISSED !

hours from 10.00 to 12.30 and from 16.00 to 19.00 every day including holidays until 28 October and

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Don Isaiah

Now that I'm running the air becomes even colder, but the slight tears that come are not just for the wind. Always happens when I start to know a place, and really alive at the time when those who live in me shows through the stories and experiences, giving me pieces of their lives. The light from the sun is going down when she hugs me and Isaiah Don tells me "do not forget us, do not forget us," look at me getting on the bike and I wishes you good luck.

We just finished lunch and it's time the greeting:

"Sarah, when he comes back?"

"I do not know, hopefully soon. Now I'll be around the Bolivia for two months, maybe finished these two months I will return, or maybe I'll go back to Italy ..."

"When he comes back here, remember to come to me"

"Sure,"

"It will teach you everything I know, the plant and would like to know how to treat?"

"Sure, that's why I'm here"

"Then you know where to find"

"Can I go back this afternoon? E 'at home?"

"Yes I'm home"

Don Isaiah lives outside the city where the streets are not paved, and where the houses are made of wood or earth. His living room is open as we speak and his wife is cooking dinner and children play happily in the land. The table and chairs are made of wood as well as the small building housing a right to our bed. The property is fenced and children run in and out the door.

Isaiah proud smiles leaning books from which he studied, looking at them as if they were evidence of his knowledge is not limited to the mere knowledge of medicinal herbs, but extends to the world of the occult and black magic and green, or that of love. It 'important to know for those who fight because they know the total view of the complexity of reality allows us to move on an informed basis. Isaiah has his own idea of \u200b\u200bwhat is good and what does help is defined operator white magic, although magic does not work because it comes with herbs, roots and barks. His decision to become a medicine man born of a successful response to his blindness, blindness due to action of an evil sorcerer probably driven by some jealous person. Here the knowledge of herbal blends with religion and the divine action that leads to a solution: the Lord gives him the strength to heal itself. He asks his wife to take the leaves of some plant and apply it on his eyes. The next day he received his sight and began his career studying at the herbalist Sobometra de La Paz.

is a story of life is very common among traditional doctors, including Africans, who must first live a strong experience of illness that allows them to acquire knowledge of suffering and then defeat it, this course enables you to test the then propose a remedy for others in need.

addition to the certificates that carefully puts it in a folder I proudly protrudes small letters from patients who claim to be healed after his speech. The words typed and wrinkles on the face of Isaiah not betray his years to make this work, which unfortunately now want to take any of his children.

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1000 km or two days por la carretera

Andes, Amazon, Pampa and pre-forest savannah, all this is in Bolivia and all that we saw from the bus nost. Two endless days of travel that we have got wonderful images and a considerable fatigue.

Incallajta means land of the Incas and is 132 km east of Cochabamba there is the extreme eastern outpost of the Inca Empire, abandoned in the first half of 1500.

Here we are immersed in the Andean landscape, embrace there by round and soft, dark green mountains and steppe.

Rene index dips into the cup of wine, run a drop to the ground and touching the forehead, mouth and heart because before you eat and drink whatever you give it to Pachamama . Rene is a known cochabambino Isla, a collection of bright kiosks where you can eat tacos, anticuchos, hamburghesa and sevice (raw fish soup). While we eat goes a guy with long hair and some jewelry created by him, and kidney, we stop to make friends and we should finish off the night at Fusion: a place run by an Italian. And so, with Giancarlo and Rene, the last two nights we spend talking about our trip from Bolivia and a glass of wine and photos on the walls of Venice and Pordenone. The fetuccine tomato and eggplant that has been prepared Giancarlo our greetings to Italy and the smile and the stories of our passes were Rene

-Giancarlo, how long it takes to get to Villa Tunari?

-Well, it depends on how many trucks are.

fact we spend the day on Thursday while traveling ... enjoying beautiful eyes that gives the landscape: climate Andean pass to the Amazon rainforest. Villa Tunari is located 300 meters above sea level, but first go through a step-by-3800 m . above sea level, the rest is all imagination of nature. For lunch

Raphael brings us to the Conquistador, a restaurant elegent with a fish farm. We were not too happy to be there and the irony of the name reminds us that we are looking for something more authentic and not tourists, we are looking for Bolivia more "real" and away from contamination occidentale.E 'also true that this is a reality: it is an aspect of Bolivia today and places like restaurants and hotels that reflect the Western style, there are not only for whites but for Bolivians themselves they want and can afford, this type of tourism.

The United Nations in 1952 treats the chewing of coca leaves taking drugs. The traditional use but has been granted to countries such as Bolivia, Peru, Colombia and Venezuela.

present, each family can grow up to 4000 square feet coca and derives from four harvests a year. It closes a branch between your thumb and index them and you scroll to the bottom so the leaves remain in the hand and the plant is not damaged. After 4 hours of drying the leaves are ready for market. With coca leaves may produce soap, liquor and tea. The chewing of the leaves is common mainly in the Andean zone, in helping the regularization of the pressure, other effects are the elimination of the stimuli of hunger and sleep. Hospital Chipiriri the nun who is persente the problem of malnutrition is lagato is the fact that some children are abandoned because their parents are in the fields to cultivate both because whoever knows a lot loses sense of hunger. It 'also true that coca has excellent therapeutic purposes and that addresses the issue of height, both with the method of mastication in the form of mate (tea) which also helps for a variety of intestinal problems.

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Other two-day journey to Trinidad with a stop at San Javier

Ice

walking to the market. Pass at 3800 meters above sea level

The dealer is responsible to maintain this order in the holy place and to release those who do not comply

Every day begins with 18 hours of sound and the forest animals singing in the choir until sunset, only one thing makes them stop: a danger. Suddenly, the forest is in play, in terror, apprehensive.

Here, in the slash and burn, the wind brings with him silence and left the desolation of this place that smells like a cemetery where the ashes of burnt wood enters the skin and eyes, which respond with tears.